Because plastic parts are insulating and prone to accumulating static, carry their own mold-release agent, and readily adsorb floating dust, their particle-defect rate is far higher than that of metal parts. The control plan below is divided into five modules; executing them in priority order will greatly eliminate particles.

Particles originating from the plastic itself are the most easily overlooked root cause and must be controlled up-front.
1. Incoming-material debris removal
Injection-molded parts must first be cleared—manually or by ultrasonic cleaning—of burrs, gates, parting-line flash, and ejector-pin plastic fines; powder generated by stacked parts rubbing together is gently blown off with an air gun.
a. It is strictly forbidden to send parts directly on-line for spraying while they still carry burrs or debris.
2. Thorough removal of mold release and oils
General ABS/PC: wipe the whole surface thoroughly with isopropanol (IPA) and a lint-free cloth, repeatedly and with emphasis on the parting lines and ejector-pin positions; for batch lines, adopt ultrasonic water-wash plus hot-air drying.
a. For hard-to-adhere substrates such as PP and PE: use plasma / flame treatment paired with a dedicated PP primer, which removes the mold release while also eliminating the waxy particles of the weak boundary layer.
b. Do not use silicone-containing mold release—silicone not only generates particles but simultaneously triggers craters.
3. Static elimination + tack-off: a two-step process (a plastic-specific core step)
a. Plastic is insulating, and simple air-blowing cannot carry away micro-dust, because static firmly adsorbs fine airborne particles. Before spraying, install ionizing air bars / ionizing air guns to cover the whole workpiece and neutralize surface static; test the ionizer daily and replace it immediately if it fails.
b. Immediately after ionized de-dusting, roll a low-tack adhesive roller once over the entire surface to pick up floating dust and fine plastic powder.
c. Spraying must begin within 5 minutes of completing de-dusting; if the part is left too long, it will re-attract dust.
1. Standardized stirring
Invert and shake the opened paint can for 1 minute, then stir at low speed with an electric mixer for 5–10 minutes to break up the settled pigment and matting powder at the bottom; for matte / skin-feel paints, extend the stirring time to prevent matting-powder agglomeration particles.
2. Mandatory filtering regime (not to be skipped)
Primer: 80–120 mesh screen; topcoat / high-gloss: 150–200 mesh nylon screen; matte paint: 120 mesh.
a. Use dual filtration—a paint-bucket screen plus a gun-tip filter—and replace any torn screen immediately; any skin on the paint surface must be fully scooped off before filtering; skin residues must never be mixed into the paint.
3. Thinner and storage management
Use only the original matched thinner from the manufacturer; do not mix off-brand thinners or over-add fast-dry thinner, which causes resin flocculation and coarsening.
a. Store paint sealed in a cool place; if a can is opened and not fully used, re-seal it the same day; for paint stored long-term, double the stirring and refine the filtering before use.
4. Do not casually blend old and new paint; mix different batches separately to avoid coarse particles from poor compatibility.
Most finely-distributed, pimple-like particles come from dry-spray overspray; fixing the process parameters will improve this.
1. Fixed spray-gun parameters
Atomizing pressure 0.3–0.5 MPa, never exceeding 0.6 MPa high pressure; gun distance 15–25 cm from the workpiece, no long-distance drifting spray. Adjust the fan pattern to a suitable width—do not open it fully, which scatters the paint mist over a wide area.
2. Spray-operation norms
Keep the gun body perpendicular to the workpiece and traverse at a steady 30–60 cm/s; no angled spraying or flicking.
a. Spray thin in multiple passes, wet-on-wet; do not make a single pass too thin; between two passes allow sufficient leveling time to avoid the previous coat's mist drying and forming particles.
b. At edges, corners and outer faces of the workpiece, reduce fan-pattern coverage to lower overspray rebound build-up.
3. Environment-matched thinner
In dry, hot, well-ventilated spray booths, add an appropriate amount of slow-dry (retarder) solvent to slow evaporation and prevent the paint mist from turning to dry powder in mid-air.
1. Compressed-air purification (a high-incidence point for oil/water/impurity particles)
Three-stage filtration configuration: air tank → primary water removal → precision oil removal → activated-carbon filter, plus a 5 μm terminal micro-filter at the gun.
Drain condensate from the air tank and filters before each shift begins; during plum-rain (rainy) weather, drain once in the morning, noon, and evening.
Replace filter elements on schedule; excess oil content forms oil-spot particles and also brings craters.
2. Spray-booth cleanliness control
Graded filtration: intake G4 primary cotton (replace weekly), ceiling F5/F6 medium-high efficiency cotton (replace every 1–3 months), and clean the bottom water-curtain paint residue daily.
Maintain 5–15 Pa booth positive pressure, with sealed door gaps and pass-through windows to prevent outdoor dust backflow; replace filter cotton immediately when the differential is low.
Housekeeping regime: epoxy flooring wet-mopped daily; dry sweeping that raises dust is strictly forbidden; wipe paint accumulation off walls and ceiling with tack cloths weekly.
Personnel control: one-piece anti-static clean suit, cap and shoe covers are mandatory, with air-shower passage before entry; tissues, ordinary clothing and hairy items are not allowed into the booth.
3. Transfer and tooling control
Hangers and fixtures: once paint buildup exceeds 1 mm, strip it periodically (burn-off / stripper) to prevent thick, embrittled paint flaking off onto parts and forming large particles; clean dust off transfer baskets regularly.
1. Daily gun disassembly and cleaning
Fully disassemble the air cap, nozzle and needle valve at the end of each day and soak-clean them in thinner; check nozzle wear weekly and replace immediately when atomization degrades.
2. Regular paint-supply system cleaning
Thoroughly clean the pressure pot and paint-delivery hoses monthly; before any color or paint change, filter and flush the whole system—dry paint flaking off the inner pipe wall will continuously carry in particles.
3. Leveling-room and bake-tunnel maintenance
Add filter cotton at the tunnel's circulating-air outlets and clean built-up paint off the inner walls quarterly; freshly sprayed parts must not be blown directly by hot air, to prevent dust falling onto the wet film.
Is the ionizing air working, and is the tack-off roller clean?
Has the air compressor been drained, and is there water/oil in the terminal filter?
What is the booth pressure differential, and is the filter cotton torn or clogged?
What is the gun atomization state, and is the screen intact?
Do the incoming parts carry burrs, fines, or oil from mold release?
Has the paint mixing completed stirring and dual filtration?
Simple summary of the anti-particle logic
Plastic static + mold release → solve substrate particles with ionized de-dusting + IPA degreasing.
Paint settling / skinning → thorough stirring + multi-stage filtering.
Overspray / dry-spray particles → lower the pressure, shorten the gun distance, and match with slow-dry solvent.
Dust / oil-water particles → graded booth filtration + three-stage air-compressor purification.
Paint-flake-off particles → wash the gun daily and clean hangers and the bake tunnel on schedule.
(This article is for reference only. For technical questions, please consult our online engineers.)