These three defects frequently occur together, yet their root causes differ. Broken down separately below, they can be directly checked against and corrected on-site.

(1) Causes
Environmental dust / static-attracted dust (the number-one problem on plastic parts): damaged or clogged spray-booth filter cotton, insufficient positive pressure letting outside dust drift in.
a. Dry-sweeping the floor, lint shedding from work clothes, paint buildup flaking off hangers;
b. Plastic is insulating and readily accumulates static, so airborne micro-dust all adsorbs onto the workpiece surface when ionized-air de-dusting fails.
Impurities in the coating itself: paint settling and skinning during storage, insufficient stirring, used directly without filtering.
a. The mixing screen's mesh count too low or the screen torn, letting skin residues and coarse pigment into the gun;
b. Mixing old and new paint, or a mismatched thinner, causing resin flocculation and coarsening.
Impurities carried by compressed air: a failed oil-water separator sends pipe rust, oil, and water droplets out with the air stream, forming particles.
Dry-spray overspray particles: too-high gun pressure, too-far gun distance, or a too-fast-dry thinner; the solvent evaporates mid-flight so the paint mist turns to dry powder that lands on the workpiece as frosted particles.
Substrate impurities (specific to plastic): injection-molding release agent, parting-line fines, and plastic dust not cleaned off.
a. Debris generated by stacked workpieces rubbing together; incomplete pre-treatment degreasing and tack-off.
Paint buildup flaking off equipment: clogged and paint-fouled gun air caps and nozzles; paint buildup falling off supply lines, booth walls, and oven interior walls.
(2) Corrective Measures
Graded filtration in the booth; replace filter cotton on schedule; keep the booth at positive pressure; wet-mop the floor, wear clean anti-static suits, and periodically clean paint buildup off ceilings and walls.
Before parts go on-line, use ionized air to remove static plus an adhesive tack-off roller to eliminate statically-adsorbed floating dust.
Stir paint thoroughly on opening; force-filter topcoats through a 120–200 mesh screen; for skinned paint, first scoop out the skin residue, then filter.
Add three-stage oil-water filtration to the air compressor; drain condensate daily; fit a micro-filter at the gun tail.
Standardize spray parameters: gun distance 15–25 cm, pressure 0.3–0.5 MPa, use the matched slow-dry thinner to reduce dry-spray.
Sand off molding burrs on incoming parts; wipe with IPA to remove release agent; periodically strip and clean paint buildup off hangers.
Disassemble and clean the gun daily; clean the paint-supply lines on schedule.
(1) Causes
Compressed air carrying water, or moisture/oil droplets encapsulated within the paint layer, expand on heating during baking and burst through the film, forming small holes.
Substrate oil, release agent, or silicone contamination: on plastic, release agents, grease, and silicone oil are incompatible with the paint, volatilizing after baking to form pinholes, often accompanied by craters.
Film too thick / a single wet pass too heavy: the internal solvent cannot volatilize in time, and the oven ramps up too fast, so trapped gas bursts through the surface film.
Imbalanced thinner volatilization: too much fast-dry thinner seals the surface too quickly so internal solvent cannot escape; too much slow-dry turns bubbles into pinholes.
Abnormal booth temperature/humidity: high humidity lets airborne moisture mix into the paint layer; too high a booth temperature causes the surface to dry too fast and trap holes.
The coating itself containing moisture or hygroscopic fillers: paint absorbing moisture after opening, water in the thinner, or hygroscopic color pastes and fillers.
Water-rinse pre-treatment not dried: plastic parts rinsed with water still carrying surface moisture are sprayed directly.
(2) Corrective Measures
Drain and replace oil-water filter elements in the compressor system regularly; eliminate oil and water from the air source.
Strengthen pre-treatment: wipe thoroughly with IPA, use ultrasonic degreasing where necessary; ban silicone-containing release agents.
Spray thin in multiple passes, control single-pass film thickness, and allow sufficient leveling/volatilization time on each pass before entering the oven.
Match the thinner to the environment; in high-humidity weather, increase the slow-dry thinner proportion.
Keep booth humidity at 40%–65%, avoiding high-temperature plus high-humidity production.
Store paint sealed; keep mixing containers dry to prevent water ingress.
Fully dry and cool water-rinsed parts before sending them on-line for spraying.
Distinguishing feature: it is not individual hard particles, but a large-area, uniform roughness that looks hazy and lowers the gloss.
(1) Causes
Severe dry-spray (most common): high pressure, far gun distance, or too-fast gun traverse; the mist over-atomizes, the solvent evaporates early, and dry powder piles up into a frosted surface over a large area.
Failed static removal with dense micro-dust adsorption: abundant micron-level fine dust evenly settles on the workpiece, appearing after spraying as a dense field of tiny raised points that read visually as orange-peel.
Poor paint dispersion / matte-powder agglomeration: in matte or skin-feel coatings, the matting agent is not well dispersed, so fine agglomerates distribute evenly through the film, feeling rough and pebbled.
Insufficient solvent power of the thinner: a poor-grade thinner cannot fully dissolve the resin, lightly flocculating the paint, which forms an uneven, pebbled surface after film formation.
Too-short leveling time before baking: the film has no time to spread and level, so tiny mist particles cannot coalesce, curing into orange-peel.
Hot-air velocity in the oven too high: strong hot air blows directly onto the freshly sprayed part, fast-drying the surface solvent and ruining the leveling.
(2) Corrective Measures
Lower the atomizing pressure, shorten the spray distance, keep a steady gun traverse, and reduce dry-spray overspray.
Inspect and service the ionizing air bars to ensure complete static neutralization; add a tack-off step.
Stir matte paint thoroughly, raise the filter mesh count, and use the manufacturer's matched thinner.
Extend the leveling/volatilization time and bake with a low-temperature, slow temperature ramp.
Adjust the oven air-outlet direction to avoid strong air blowing straight onto the workpiece surface.
(If there are technical issues or samples are needed, please contact our online engineers.)
Check the air source first: dry-spray the gun onto white paper; if water or oil appears, replace the filtration and drain immediately.
Then control substrate pre-treatment: the three steps of degreasing + static removal + tack-off must not be skipped.
Standardize paint mixing: stir + filter; never swap thinners at will.
Lock down spray parameters: thin multi-coats, control gun distance and pressure, and forbid long-distance drifting spray.
Optimize the bake curve: level at low temperature with a staged temperature rise to prevent internal solvent from bursting holes.
Stabilize booth cleanliness: replace filters and clean daily on schedule; keep reasonable temperature and humidity.
Quick-Distinction Mnemonic
Particles: hard raised bumps, caused by impurities / overspray / plastic debris.
Pinholes: sunken small holes, caused by oil-water, oil fouling, or solvent gas bursting through the film.
Orange-peel: a large-area, fine frosted matte surface, caused by dry-spray, micro-dust, matting-powder agglomeration, or poor leveling.
(This article is for reference only. For technical questions, please consult our online engineers.)